Fennel & manchego Glamorgan Sausages (sort of)
The name "Glamorgan sausage" hides a fair old whack of sin. "Leek and cheese croquettes" are something you might legitimately feel bad about having for dinner, something you might be passingly moderate about; or nibble fussily from a hot buffet. Balls to that, says Wales. This is real food, and we'll treat it as such. It's a sausage, get on with it.And sausages they are. Heavy and filling, tending to rich, and with a pleasing bite from the leeks, Glamorgan sausages are the only veggie banger not to feel like a limp apology.What they are not, however, is the best sausages. The best sausage is finocchiona. (Although in the spirit of diplomacy, I'd also consider a good, mealy, rustic Lincolnshire for the top spot.)Being as you can't really add fine-ground pork and still have Glamorgan sausages be either vegetarian or remotely similar to their origin, it's hard to see a path to a finocchiona mash up. But I do wonder if we can get in some of that gorgeous fennel flavour in there, along with the deep, winey richness.Let's have a go.This recipe owes more than a small debt to Felicity Cloake who has been over Glamorgan sausages in some detail, and saved me hours of bother perfecting the base recipe. If you want that straight up Glamorgan hit, all cheddar sharpness and leek, cook her recipe first.Right, now to the arsing about with fennel.
Ingredients:
- Leeks, 1 large one (aiming roughly at 150g)
- Fresh breadcrumbs, about 200g
- Fennel seeds, at least 1tsp
- Caraway seeds, a sturdy pinch
- 2 large eggs
- Cheese
- ~100g Manchego (see note below)
- ~50g strong Cheddar
- ~20g Parmesan
- Red wine, a solid splash of a robust one (say 50ml?)
- A clove or two of garlic
- Salt, pepper, and butter/oil for frying
A word on the cheeses. It doesn't have to be Manchego. I used this to get a good meting balance, and because it's got a bit of richness. The cheddar then gives a bit of acidity. You could use any solid European cheese that melts like that. At the firm end: Manchego, or something waxy/solid like Ossau-Iraty; at the softer end: Raclette, Gruyere, or even Fontina. The great thing about Manchego is that it melts firm and stringy, which really helps the whole thing bind. Obviously, they'll all influence the flavour, too, and you can adjust the Parmesan to bring up the umami & salt.